Marieke is a Dutch journalist and photographer who has been documenting street culture across Europe for over a decade.
Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked near the top among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.
The little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This honour has made the owners completely shocked.
“I’m utterly surprised,” states a family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small place earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.
This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.
In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy quality.
The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.
The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet profile.
Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.
“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.
In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.
A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.
“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.
This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.
Marieke is a Dutch journalist and photographer who has been documenting street culture across Europe for over a decade.